plate 20: austria

Ah, schnitzel. My love of the schnit goes way back. As a kid I used to go with my parents and some friends to Bill 'n Toni's in Sydney - the no-frills establishment famous for hearty food and decor that's remained unchanged for 50 years. Ordering the schnitzel and cheese was the highlight of my week. The schnitzel was the size of a plate larger than my head and cheese was melted over the whole thing, oozing and bubbling in all its golden glory. It always reached the table with a word of warning from the waiter that the plate was very hot, which it was, but it was also extremely delicious. My love of the schnit has never wavered. A few years ago, friends and I discovered the White Cockatoo pub in Petersham who serve all manner of schnit. And so, in thinking what to cook for week 20 of the journey, Austria sprung to mind and there was no question of what the dish would be.

Like many countries I've tastebud toured, Austrian cuisine is diverse and reflective of its proximity and dealings with other countries in its vicinity, including Germany, Hungary, Turkey, Croatia and Italy. The wiener schnitzel (literally meaning Viennese schnitzel) is Vienna's most renowned and well-loved dish. Apparently the term "wiener schnitzel" is protected by law in Austria, meaning any schnitzel called by that name has to be made from veal. The history of the dish is said to be traced to a Kaiser Basileios who liked his meat coated in sheets of gold. (Don't we all, Kaiser?) The "gold" was adapted to breadcrumbs that were used by the Italians in a dish called "costoletta alla milanese", which an Austrian general discovered when the country was at war with Italy in the 19th century. The general then reported this culinary marvel to the Austrian Kaiser. From here, the crumbing and frying technique used in schnitzel today was perfected by the Austrians.

Whatever its history, a schnit never disappoints. Served on the side was the wiener schnitzels' traditional Austrian accompaniment - erdapfel salat - potatoes par-boiled and sliced mixed with red onion, vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Fresh and fantastic.

Onto dessert. I'd never tried my hand at an apple strudel - I'm not sure why, since I love the flaky pastry on the outside and sweet, cinnamon, sultana fruitiness inside - but now was the perfect opportunity. I also love saying apfelstrudel in my best Austrian accent - channel Schwarzenegger and you've got it.

Not having enough time, patience or skill to make the pastry from scratch, which is supposed to be rolled super-duper thin, I cheated - as instructed by Nigel Slater - and used filo pastry. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. One day I might graduate to rolling my own strudel dough, but for easy home cooking, I'll stick with filo.